Monday, May 20, 2019

Up to the Artic Circle

Pauline and Margret's adventures continue as they head up the Yukon River.  They even meet some famous people on the way.


Friday, June 30th.  Been a grand day.  Got up late....9:30.  The steward tried to get in three times before we got out of the room.  Loafed and played ping pong with M and Mr. Shedd.  About noon the boat stopped to put a marker up on the bank.  After lunch we played more ping pong and played cards.  After dinner we did the same.  It has been a warm lazy day -swell.  About seven we stopped at Purgatory - bachelor brothers live there.  They have the dock fixed up by the land and one brother stands beside it and waves his hands.  One is quite a poet and artist and their hut is full of things - they are trappers.  About ten we stopped at Beaver.  Here were real Eskimos.  The married women have tattoo marks on their chins.  There is a little government school.  Stopped about 12:30 for wood along the shore.  Saw the sun set about 12:32 and rise at 1:50.  We talked with one of the pilots, he is very nice.  He took us up to the pilot house and we stayed till two when the sun was well up.  Got to bed about 3 o'clock.

William Yanert
William Yanert
Side light:  The bachelor brother that Pauline met was William Yanert, a cartographer from Prussia.  He lived with his brother at a spot they called Purgatory for 37 years.  He was a poet and artist.  He is quoted as saying Purgatory was "one hell of a place to live."

Saturday, July 1.  Were in and out of the Artic Circle.  We entered the Artic Circle about 6 this morning.  I got up about 10.  This morning we took on some more wood.  After lunch, about 2, we stopped at Fort Yukon.  M mailed all our cards.  Then saw the sights - church and school.  Bought a beaded moccasins  done by the Eskimo ladies - 75 cents.  Back on board we watched the children scramble for money people on the boat tossed them.  Sailed on then after talking with a girl, 22 - who runs a trap line 280 miles back in the wild.  Two sisters, mother and father made about $5,000 on furs this year.  She had never been outside.  Left the Artic Circle about 8 tonight.  Got a picture of things and played ping pong then had a dance.  Danced with Mr. Shedd and Mr. Coats.  Went to bed about 11 - rather tired.  Have a book to read.  They have a little library on the ship.

Sunday, July 2nd.  Got up about 10.  Went on shore at Circle.  They had some beautiful dogs.  And old Eskimo woman showed us the church.  There is no minister there but she keeps it up.  When I came back M was sick.  Still is.  I had lunch, played some ping pong, stayed on deck.  Went to church at 2:30.  A colnel (sic) chaplin led it.  Had chicken and ice cream for dinner.  Went out on the lower deck where the crew amused us by playing the accordian, a mouth organ and making a wooden doll dance.  Then they showed us the Alaska shotish (sic).  It is fun. Went upstairs and set the phonograph a going and practiced the shotish (sic) some more.  A lady who is a nurse came to M.  Left some pills for her to be taking every hour.  I stayed on the deck till 2, then lay on the top bunk.  Didn't undress so not to disburb M.

Monday, July 3rd.  M still sick.  Changed into my slacks about 9.  Came up on deck and ate an orange for breakfast.  Day pretty much routine.  Played ping pong.  Stopped at Eagle about 11 o'clock.  Very nice town.  Well kept and lovley flowers.  M. had a fever....103 tonight.  There is a nurse and doctor on board.  They suggested I move to an empty room.  So I did.  Slept well.

Just Writin' on the River Road

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