A little romance on the frontier?

Saturday, July 15  Got up about 11, went shopping, got some pictures.  Then took a walk over Skagway Bridge to Pirate Cove and then out to a point.  On our way we met a young man, Joe, and he came along.  He was very nice and made the walk most entertaining.  I like him.  He had blue eyes, light hair and a mustache - tall and athletic.  He helped check in the freight when the boat docked.  He liked walking and hiking.  Got home about 4:30.  Went to see the Yukon come in and the Prince George go out.  Came back and M treated me to a big dinner at the hotel.  Then took a walk to the boat with Didi.  Met Johnny down there and talked in the observation room while they came home.  We had banana ice cream cones.  Talked in the lobby a while then went to bed.

Sunday, July 16  Got up about 9. dressed and packed, checked out about 10.  Fooled around the hotel lobby.  Couldn't go on a hike because it was raining.  Ate at a café then played the piano for a while in the lobby.  Then about 3:30 got a taxi to take over our bags.  Went on board the ship.  I was sleepy so went to our room to sleep.  M stayed on deck and got our table settings, table K.  Seems nice.  Three teachers who are jolly, a doctor and his wife (doctor is very dark and handsome and as all doctors, easy conversationalist), so we are well off.  After dinner watched the boat leave the dock about 7.  Stayed on deck to enjoy the scenery and played deck tennis.  Stayed on deck until about 10:30 then went and had a midnight lunch.  I am in the habit now from the river boats.  Then went up to the observation room, danced some and talked.  The doctor joined M and I about 11:30 and we chatted until 12 when things were over.  M and I went on deck again.  Beautiful, the sharp, rugged mountains silhouetted against the clouded sky with now and then stars peeking through - was lovely.  We could hear the swish of the water churned by the propellers of the ship.  Now to bed at 12:30.  We get to Juneau at 7 this morning.

Fish cannery

Monday, July 17  Got up about 6:30.  Walked around Juneau.  Came back and had breakfast at 9.  Played shuffle board and sat on deck til noon.  After lunch we got to Hawkins Inlet.  I went ashore - M didn't.  Wild berries grow in abundance - blueberries and loganberries, the last not ripe yet.  Mr. Shedd took me through a cannery.  It wasn't running but you could see all the machinery.  Next we stopped Hula, another cannery where we again loaded canned salmon.  This was about 7, after dinner.  Played shuffle board until about 10, then went to the midnight lunch.  To bed about 11.  Had a fire drill this morning.  the fire hose got away from its keeper and M and I got a shower bath.  Bet I'm lame tomorrow from shuffle board.  Played three games against two college boys and M and I beat each time.

Just Writin' on the River Road

On the way back

After trekking across Alaska and parts of Canada, it appears that the girls are on their way home.

Wednesday, July 12th
Got up about 8 and we docked at Carcross again about 8:30.  We had our baggage checked to Skagway then went over to hear Paty Henderson's lecture.  He was a boy when the Bananga strike was made in "90".  He was with the four men.  He showed his Indian traps, talked broken English.  Went to the fur farm.  Saw the fox and mink.  Fox were shedding and looked most homely.  Our train left at 10 - had a delightful trip.  Babies and young make interesting company.  Went along t

he shore of Lake Bennett.  Stopped there for lunch, M and I didn't go.  Cost a dollar and we lunched on some candy and spent the time climbing the hill to the old church and taking pictures.  The rest of the trip was wonderful.  High snow capped mountains and water falls.  We stopped first at the boundary between the U.S. and Canada, next at Inspiration Point where a monument is erected to the pack horses and where you can see the trace of the old Yukon Trail.  Went over the high bridge, up Dead Horse Gulch and stopped again at Pitch Fork Falls.  Walked up the trail beside them and took pictures.  U.S. customs inspectors came aboard at the train yards at Skagway and inspected hand luggage.  The train stopped right in front of the Golden North Hotel.  M and I got room 19 on the third floor - $2 a day apiece.  Really is two rooms.  One bed back away from the windows over looking the street and one by them.  I have the bed by the windows but feel sorry for the door thing - it is so tired and sagging.  Did the washing this afternoon and it is drying over the head and foot of my bed.  First time we have running water for many a day.  Had dinner at the hotel dining room.  The went to the Pullen House and heard Mrs. Pullen tell about her experiences - most interesting.  Back here at the hotel at 11.  Mrs. Pullen knew Soapy Smith when he drove a freight wagon.

Jefferson Randolph "Soapy" Smith II was a con artist and gangster of the old west.  He is buried in Skagway.
Thursday, July 13th.

Soapy Smith

Got up about 12.  Made an appointment for 3 to get my hair fixed and then went shopping.  About 2 we went down to look over the Princess Louse.  At 3 did our hair.  About 5 came back to the hotel.  At 6 went to down to see the Princess Louise off.  Mr. and Mrs. Coats, Miss Point, etc. went.  Went down to Pullen House for while, then ate, then back to the hotel and M did a washing.  Eleven now and will try to sleep if our next door neighbors who are talking and laughing and playing the phonograph allow it.

Friday, July 14th

Skagway street car circa 1939

Got up about 8, took a ride with Martin Tyler in the Skagway street car.  Most amusing and very instructive.  Went to the Blanchard Flower Gardens.  M and I both took pictures.  I used one roll of color film.  About 3 went around by the Pullen House to see if Mrs. Young wanted to biking to the lake.  Asked another lady too.  By the time it was 4 we had our party together and we all took lunches with us.  Had a splendid walk, very lovely.  Ate our lunch by the Lower Dewey Lake then Mrs. Young made a ball of a rock with paper around it and we played catch.  Got done about 8 and watched a ball game till 9.  Came back home and took a shower, then to bed.  There is a dance tonight, wish I could go.

Just Writin' on the River Road

Into Canada

After celebrating the 4th of  July, Pauline and Margret board a new ship from Canada and continue on their northern adventures.

Tuesday, July 4th.  In Canadian waters and flying the Canadian flag.  High mountains by the river again, lovely scenery.  Took a nap on the top deck in the sun.  M's fever is down to 101, feels much better.  Starting to eat.  We have a 4th party tonight.  I take charge of prizes.  Poor Mr. Poss - the ship's pest, as he is privately known.  At the amature on the other program, he told a most vulgar story.  He wanted to be on this program and finally backed the program chairman in a corner and demanded why he couldn't be on our program.  The chairman, in desperation, told him because the ladies objected to his stories.  Now he is looking like a whipped dog.  Oh dear, now I am beginning to feel sorry for him.  I hope I don't have to let my better nature get the best of me and have to act friendly.

Wednesday, July 5th.  Got off the boat about 9 after customs inspection, got our room, had lunch, slept, took a little walk, had dinner, slept.  About 10 went to dance.  Good time.  Got home about 12:15 - finally went to bed.

Thursday, July 6th.  Got up about 10.  Found out we were leaving tonight instead of tomorrow so signed out to get our room on the Casca - 19, just like the Yukon.  This is a Canadian boat, nice rooms the people say.  The doors open out onto the deck instead of into the dining room as on the Yukon.  Took a walk this morning to the port office and Robert W. Service's cabin where he wrote all his Yukon poetry.  Had a banana milkshake for lunch.  It is cloudy now and the show man is putting on a show at 3 o'clock.

Sidelight:  The Casca and the Whitehorse were the last two sternwheelers on the Yukon River.  Both were destroyed in a fire in 1974.  And Pauline was correct that the Casca had been built in 1936.


Later.  Went to the show but got thrown out.  There weren't enough to pay for running it so we got our money back.  Our baggage was put on board about 5 o'clock.  M and I took our coats over to our room.  It is the same number as on the other boat.  Much nicer rooms though, larger and newer looking.  The Casca is a newer boat, only one or two years old.  Our doors open out onto the deck here instead of into the dining room as on the Yukon which makes it much airier and easier to see the scenery.  M and I put her white mosquito netting over the door, there is no screen, so we can have the whole door open all night and still people can't see in very well.  Swell.  I had a bear steak dinner tonight.  M didn't go back ashore.  Then I came on deck and we sang farewell to the Yukon which sailed back to Nenana at 7.  They said they had never had a group that gave themselves and the crew such a good time as our group.  I had never had a group sing farewell before to the tune of "Farewell Ladies".  We sang goodbye to the ship Yukon, the Capitan and the crew, the cook, etc.  Fun.  We sailed about 10.  They gave us a midnight lunch then we went to bed.  It is now 12 and I can lie here to see the lovely Yukon scenery - green hills with many inlets and islands.  M is just about well now.


Friday, July 7th.  Got up about 9 - then went on deck to see the scenery.  More mountains now - good game country.  This afternoon we saw a bear, a big black one - climbed up the side of tree.  Stopped at Stewart about 11.  Took on some concentrate from the silver mine above there. It is going to the States.  Took a walk alone.  Two men had just shot a bear that morning and we watched them  skin him.  Back on deck met a Mr. King who got on there.  He pointed out a man who is an agitator and trouble maker.  Nicely dressed.  He said the Mounties were watching him.  Saw some Mounties in Dawson.  King also told about the Klondike river boat sinking in June 1936.  He was on it.  After dinner we watched the scenery again.  Boat stopped at a trapper cabin to leave some mail and lumber for a house and a radio.  Then Mr. Shedd and I played ping pong.  They have a real table here.  Played a game with the purser too.  Then had midnight lunch, now to bed.  It is still daylight all night long but not as bright as it used to be.  Resolved to get up for breakfast tomorrow so now to sleep - 12 pm.

Just Writin' on the River Road

Up to the Artic Circle

Pauline and Margret's adventures continue as they head up the Yukon River.  They even meet some famous people on the way.


Friday, June 30th.  Been a grand day.  Got up late....9:30.  The steward tried to get in three times before we got out of the room.  Loafed and played ping pong with M and Mr. Shedd.  About noon the boat stopped to put a marker up on the bank.  After lunch we played more ping pong and played cards.  After dinner we did the same.  It has been a warm lazy day -swell.  About seven we stopped at Purgatory - bachelor brothers live there.  They have the dock fixed up by the land and one brother stands beside it and waves his hands.  One is quite a poet and artist and their hut is full of things - they are trappers.  About ten we stopped at Beaver.  Here were real Eskimos.  The married women have tattoo marks on their chins.  There is a little government school.  Stopped about 12:30 for wood along the shore.  Saw the sun set about 12:32 and rise at 1:50.  We talked with one of the pilots, he is very nice.  He took us up to the pilot house and we stayed till two when the sun was well up.  Got to bed about 3 o'clock.

William Yanert

Side light:  The bachelor brother that Pauline met was William Yanert, a cartographer from Prussia.  He lived with his brother at a spot they called Purgatory for 37 years.  He was a poet and artist.  He is quoted as saying Purgatory was "one hell of a place to live."

Saturday, July 1.  Were in and out of the Artic Circle.  We entered the Artic Circle about 6 this morning.  I got up about 10.  This morning we took on some more wood.  After lunch, about 2, we stopped at Fort Yukon.  M mailed all our cards.  Then saw the sights - church and school.  Bought a beaded moccasins  done by the Eskimo ladies - 75 cents.  Back on board we watched the children scramble for money people on the boat tossed them.  Sailed on then after talking with a girl, 22 - who runs a trap line 280 miles back in the wild.  Two sisters, mother and father made about $5,000 on furs this year.  She had never been outside.  Left the Artic Circle about 8 tonight.  Got a picture of things and played ping pong then had a dance.  Danced with Mr. Shedd and Mr. Coats.  Went to bed about 11 - rather tired.  Have a book to read.  They have a little library on the ship.

Sunday, July 2nd.  Got up about 10.  Went on shore at Circle.  They had some beautiful dogs.  And old Eskimo woman showed us the church.  There is no minister there but she keeps it up.  When I came back M was sick.  Still is.  I had lunch, played some ping pong, stayed on deck.  Went to church at 2:30.  A colnel (sic) chaplin led it.  Had chicken and ice cream for dinner.  Went out on the lower deck where the crew amused us by playing the accordian, a mouth organ and making a wooden doll dance.  Then they showed us the Alaska shotish (sic).  It is fun. Went upstairs and set the phonograph a going and practiced the shotish (sic) some more.  A lady who is a nurse came to M.  Left some pills for her to be taking every hour.  I stayed on the deck till 2, then lay on the top bunk.  Didn't undress so not to disburb M.

Monday, July 3rd.  M still sick.  Changed into my slacks about 9.  Came up on deck and ate an orange for breakfast.  Day pretty much routine.  Played ping pong.  Stopped at Eagle about 11 o'clock.  Very nice town.  Well kept and lovley flowers.  M. had a fever....103 tonight.  There is a nurse and doctor on board.  They suggested I move to an empty room.  So I did.  Slept well.

Just Writin' on the River Road

Alaska at its best!

Pauline and Margret are getting their days and nights confused.  Seems they stay up all night for  "forever daylight" activities.


Sunday, June 25.  Got up about 7.  The hotel sent a boy around knocking at the doors and calling everyone.  We dressed and went down stairs and found our places in the bus that was to take us into the park.  We left at 8:30.  M and I sat in the front seats so we could get out quick to take pictures.  We went 66 miles into the park and 66 miles back.  A ranger went along to explain things.  We were in the first bus. Road was bumpy but pretty good and at times went right along precipices.  Thrilling!  Lovely scenery, high mountains surrounding a flat valley through which streams ran.  Mt. McKinley was covered with clouds so only saw its base.  At camp Cibern (sic) we had lunch and did it taste good - vegetable salad, thick vegetable soup, beans, potatoes, beef, peas, homemade bread, butter, and canned pineapple for dessert.  After dinner stayed around for a while to see if Mt. McKinley would come in sight - it never did really.  I took pictures of a friendly little squirrel!  Started home about 3 - got into a rain and hale (sic) storm on the way back to the hotel.  Saw a grizzly on the way, he was playing and having a great time - a huge thing.  The bus stopped and we watched him - saw mountain sheep, carabu (sic) - got a good picture of them.  A marmot, eagles and squirrels.  Stopped on the way back to see the dogs again.  Got to hotel about 6:15.  M and I didn't go in to dinner - ate a candy bar instead.  We came to our room and played cards until almost 8, then went to the leisure room to see motion pictures of the second ascension of Mt. McKinley.  The superintendent ranger of the camp showed them.  Very interesting.  It is now 10 o'clock and M and I are going to bed.  Tomorrow we go on to Fairbanks.

Pioneer Hotel no longer exists.

Monday, June 26.  Got up about 7:30.  Walked over to the post office.  Got some pictures and some crackers to eat and a can of tomato juice.  Went back to the hotel ate our crackers and juice and then took a nap.  At 12 the hotel boy took our luggage to the bus which took it to the station.  Left at 1:30 for Fairbanks.  Gentle rolling country, green with many flowers.  Arrived at 6:00, took a cab (50cents) to Pioneer Hotel.  Our reservation was ready, room 174.  Has a private bath, $13 a piece a night but it is nice to have a bath.  Went right out to get dinner.  Did it taste good!  Then walked around town.  Went with Mr. Shedd to see the daylight night baseball game - 10 o'clock and still daylight.  Then came home and took a bath.  M fell on the street and skinned her knee.  We do Fairbanks tomorrow so went to bed.

Tuesday, June 27.  Got up at 8:30, dressed and then arranged for a trip out to the dragline.  Took a walk around town then went in a taxi with an elderly couple to see the sights.  Went to the University of Alaska, to the museum - saw stuffed animals - moose, albino seals, birds.  Then on to the dragline where they are doing hydraulic mining.  Got back about 2 and had lunch.  After lunch, M and I came back to the hotel and did some washing and then napped while M did hers.  About 6 we went out for dinner, then wen to the camera shop where I had the film taken out of my camera - it had gotten stuck.  M and I then went to a show.  Saw Errol Flynn in "Four is a Crowd".  Good.  Came back to the hotel about 10 and got some good pictures of the sunset.  Met Mr. and Mrs. Smith from Oregon in front of the hotel.  While we were talking, M called my attention to red haired boy standing there.  Soon he stepped up to Mr. Smith and asked if he knew P. Saylor.  I knew then that it was Paul.  He has been hunting us all day.  Said his mother would come in at 6 tomorrow to see us.  He was catching the bus back to his home about 11 o'clock  It is now 12:30 and still daylight.  It never gets dark anymore.  Picked up a fossil bone for Dad at the mine.  They dig them out of the clay banks.

Just Writin' on the River Road