Up the Yukon River

Not just a tourist, Pauline has contact with former acquaintances on her trip.  Life in frontier Alaska seems to have taken its toll.

Wednesday, June 28.  Hotel manager called us at 5:45 as we had requested.  It was really hot during the night.  We slept all night with only a sheet over us and wished we didn't have that.  El Dory came about 6:10.  She looks much older and shabbier - sort of weather worn.  Had a nice visit while M and I packed up again.  Paul is in the 8th grade.  Barth has work now and expects to get along better this year.  E. is going to teach Paul at home for a couple of years.  Found some more facts about Fairbanks.  Today it was 107 in the sun, a bunch of carrots cost 35 cents.  El said she would love to have an avocado.  They have a garden patch and are trying to dig a cellar.  El has neuritis and it hurts her to work.  Barth suffers from time to time from loss of memory.  Paul seems to be a good worker but is not interested in school.  She walked over to the station with us about 8 - 9, paid the taxi driver $2 and he said he would take her home.  Otherwise she would have had to wait until 12:30 to take the bus and then walk a mile.  It was hot and she wasn't well so I thought I better see she got home since she had come in just to see me.  Barth comes through town to work with his neighbor and she rode in with them.  Our train left at 8:30.  There is a standing joke that the Alaska railroads are mentioned in the Bible - "God mad all creeping things"!  Got into Nenana about 11.  We had our tickets and got our room number on the boat - room 19.  I saw that our baggage which had not been checked got off the train - then we went on the boat.  We were suppose to sail at 12, but Mr. Shedd's American Express party lost all their baggage.  The train carried it off.  They had to take a hand car and bring it back.  We finally sailed about 3 o'clock.

Is our room ever small.  I think it must be 6 X 5 feet.  Two bunks, one above the other, with a water basin with a pitcher of water that runs into the pan under the basin. One of us has to stay in bed while the other is working or standing up.  M and I are assigned the second seating for eating dinner -  was good if not fancy. And does it taste good.  After eating lunch - usually at 12:30 for the first sitting and 1:15 second  - but we didn't eat till about 2.  After we started down the Tananah (tributary of the Yukon River) we said about an hour and then stopped to take on wood.  The boat just pulled up along the bank of the river and they laid a gang plank down and they piled wood onto little cards and the crew brought it on the boat.  About 15 cords I think the captain said - takes lots of wood to run  our sternwheeler.  We then continued on our way.  The scenery was lovely and it is warm and balmy on deck - lots of fun.  Had dinner about 7 tonight.  Then went on deck again.  Came in a played ring the man with several people.  About 10 we went out to watch the sun set.  Then same some songs in the lounge.  Mrs. ---- from Long Beach playing the piano.  Went to bed about 12:30 - still daylight.  It never gets dark anymore.  Sun sets about 10 and rises at 11:30.

PS.  Had a midnight lunch about 10:30.  Delicious berries.  All kinds of meals served during the day
too.


Thursday, June 29.  It was hot last night.  I bounced around considerably in my upper berth.  Got up about 7, put on my slack suit and went to breakfast.  Had a half a grapefruit, didn't need anything more for the midnight lunch stuck by me.  We were docked at the town of Tananah this morning located about at the mouth of the Yukon.  Stayed about three hours while we loaded lumber, corrugated tin for roofs of interior homes.  Walked about a quarter of a mile up the shore to a store - M was not up yet.  Saw lots of skins.  The trappers had been in with their catch.  They had beaver, fox, bear, wolverine, wolf, coyote.  Has some parkas made up too out of caribou and reindeer skins.  The wolf skin was 8 feet long!  Waited at this store for the boat to come up.  It stopped there at 9 - it is now 12:30 and we are on our way again  - up the Yukon now so we go slower.  I'm sitting on the top deck in the sun and getting burned.  I have no need of a coat, it is very warm.  Almost time for our dinner now.

Got stuck on a sand bar last night about 3 and there was much running about and pushing, but we got off all right.  We made a stop about 3 miles above Tananah at the Mission of Our Savior.  A missionary and his wife coming back from furlough got off there.

5:30.  First sitting for dinner is now being moved.  Our turn will come in about an hour.  The river has narrowed somewhat, the mountains rise majestically on each side.  It is raining now and occasionally there is a streak of lightening.  Still warm though.  I wrote my post cards this afternoon, all ready to mail at Ft. Yukon.

11:45.  Read for bed.  Had dinner then went on deck for a while.  Talked with Mr. Hall and Mr. Carney a while.  Then cam in and sang songs - then had midnight lunch.  The rain is over and it is warm and balmy again.  Have a mosquito bite in my eye that is swelled up.  M is reading a story to me - then to sleep.

Just Writin' on the River Road

Alaska at its best!

Pauline and Margret are getting their days and nights confused.  Seems they stay up all night for  "forever daylight" activities.


Sunday, June 25.  Got up about 7.  The hotel sent a boy around knocking at the doors and calling everyone.  We dressed and went down stairs and found our places in the bus that was to take us into the park.  We left at 8:30.  M and I sat in the front seats so we could get out quick to take pictures.  We went 66 miles into the park and 66 miles back.  A ranger went along to explain things.  We were in the first bus. Road was bumpy but pretty good and at times went right along precipices.  Thrilling!  Lovely scenery, high mountains surrounding a flat valley through which streams ran.  Mt. McKinley was covered with clouds so only saw its base.  At camp Cibern (sic) we had lunch and did it taste good - vegetable salad, thick vegetable soup, beans, potatoes, beef, peas, homemade bread, butter, and canned pineapple for dessert.  After dinner stayed around for a while to see if Mt. McKinley would come in sight - it never did really.  I took pictures of a friendly little squirrel!  Started home about 3 - got into a rain and hale (sic) storm on the way back to the hotel.  Saw a grizzly on the way, he was playing and having a great time - a huge thing.  The bus stopped and we watched him - saw mountain sheep, carabu (sic) - got a good picture of them.  A marmot, eagles and squirrels.  Stopped on the way back to see the dogs again.  Got to hotel about 6:15.  M and I didn't go in to dinner - ate a candy bar instead.  We came to our room and played cards until almost 8, then went to the leisure room to see motion pictures of the second ascension of Mt. McKinley.  The superintendent ranger of the camp showed them.  Very interesting.  It is now 10 o'clock and M and I are going to bed.  Tomorrow we go on to Fairbanks.

Pioneer Hotel no longer exists.

Monday, June 26.  Got up about 7:30.  Walked over to the post office.  Got some pictures and some crackers to eat and a can of tomato juice.  Went back to the hotel ate our crackers and juice and then took a nap.  At 12 the hotel boy took our luggage to the bus which took it to the station.  Left at 1:30 for Fairbanks.  Gentle rolling country, green with many flowers.  Arrived at 6:00, took a cab (50cents) to Pioneer Hotel.  Our reservation was ready, room 174.  Has a private bath, $13 a piece a night but it is nice to have a bath.  Went right out to get dinner.  Did it taste good!  Then walked around town.  Went with Mr. Shedd to see the daylight night baseball game - 10 o'clock and still daylight.  Then came home and took a bath.  M fell on the street and skinned her knee.  We do Fairbanks tomorrow so went to bed.

Tuesday, June 27.  Got up at 8:30, dressed and then arranged for a trip out to the dragline.  Took a walk around town then went in a taxi with an elderly couple to see the sights.  Went to the University of Alaska, to the museum - saw stuffed animals - moose, albino seals, birds.  Then on to the dragline where they are doing hydraulic mining.  Got back about 2 and had lunch.  After lunch, M and I came back to the hotel and did some washing and then napped while M did hers.  About 6 we went out for dinner, then wen to the camera shop where I had the film taken out of my camera - it had gotten stuck.  M and I then went to a show.  Saw Errol Flynn in "Four is a Crowd".  Good.  Came back to the hotel about 10 and got some good pictures of the sunset.  Met Mr. and Mrs. Smith from Oregon in front of the hotel.  While we were talking, M called my attention to red haired boy standing there.  Soon he stepped up to Mr. Smith and asked if he knew P. Saylor.  I knew then that it was Paul.  He has been hunting us all day.  Said his mother would come in at 6 tomorrow to see us.  He was catching the bus back to his home about 11 o'clock  It is now 12:30 and still daylight.  It never gets dark anymore.  Picked up a fossil bone for Dad at the mine.  They dig them out of the clay banks.

Just Writin' on the River Road

Mt McKinley and beyond

Curry Hotel

Friday, June 23, 11PM.  Here we are at Curry Hotel.  M and I in a nice double room.  Got up this morning at Anchorage about 8 o'clock.  They are remodeling the hotel and the men began pounding about then.  There was a trip into Matanuska Valley this morning but M and I decided we would see enough of that country on the train trip to Curry so we saved our money.  I had a light breakfast  - 25 cents - toast and milk.  Then M and I walked around Anchorage and bought some picture post cards.  The hotel took our baggage, now all decorated with Anchorage stickers, down to the station.  I check my big bag through to McKinley Park and kept the other with me.  M checked both her bags to Curry.  We left at 2 PM for Curry.  This time we went through flatter country though mostly covered with small trees and lakes.  At Matanuska, where we picked up the morning trippers, we saw some of the farming country.  Got to Curry about 7.  I took care of my bag and the coats while M went to see about our room.  No trouble at all.  They had our reservation and things were ready for us.  We came up and cleaned up put on my chiffon blouse.  Then we went to dinner - $1.50.  M and I were in the second sitting at 8 o'clock, had fruit cocktail, asparagus, ripe olives, chicken and dressing, potatoes, sting beans, three large biscuits with strawberry jam, tea, and all the ice cream and cake we wanted.  I won't eat again until dinner tomorrow at McKinley.  After dinner, we walked over the swinging bridge over the river back of the hotel.  I hiked way up the mountain, lovely view of the hotel and surrounding country.  The hotel here is a combination railroad depot and hotel.  The train runs right up to the front door.  Mosquitoes are bad, we kept our hankies fluttering to avoid them.  Had a lot of fun and laughs talking in the lunge with other travelers and telling tall stories about work.  The to bed about 11. Tried a time exposure of M and me reflected in the mirror.  Nice room - dresser, two beds, hot and cold water, and a heater you can turn on and off and it really works.  It is now 11:30 and still light enough for me to write without artificial light.  Out our window we see green rolling hills and can hear the river murmuring by.  One some of the hills near by are patches of snow but it is warm and balmy.  Sky was still overcast today and kept us from seeing Mt. McKinley.  Our train leaves about 7:30 tomorrow so must go to bed.

Saturday, June 24.  We were called at 6 am.  M and I got up and dressed.  I went down first and over the swinging bridge again to take pictures.  Got our bags together and were on our way at 7:30.  We climbed again through a canyon crossing and re-crossing streams and rivers.

 Should have seen Mt. McKinley but it is way too cloudy.  Just after we reached the entrance to the park we came into nice sunshine.  We arrived at the hotel about 12.  M came in to see about our room while I looked after the baggage.  They brought our things up on a truck.  There was no trouble about the hotel, our reservations were in.  We have a nice room - 206.  This is a new hotel and everything looks clean and unused.  We have twin beds, a dresser, closet, hot and cold running water, heater, chair table, lamp and window looking out on the mountains.  After we got settled in our room, M and I hiked about 2 miles to the ranger station where they keep the Alaskan huskies they use in the winter to pull the sleds. A ranger took a party of us around to see the sleds and dogs.  M and I took pictures.  We walked back about 4 o'clock with Mr. Shedd and some of his party.  The ranger was very nice.  When we came back, M and I arranged for the trip into the park tomorrow - $25 - Ouch!  Expect to see Karabo (sic) and grizzlies.  We will be gone all day - start at 8:30.  Then we got dressed and had dinner at 6 o'clock.  Wasn't worth $2 - fruit cocktail, olives, tomato soup, pork and dressing, peas, potatoes, three buns, jelly, tea, stale cake and half a pear.  Didn't fill you up.  After dinner, we watched from the lobby while it rained while the sun shone.  Saw the moon for the first time since we left home - white one.  At 8:30 there was a lecture by one of the rangers.  He showed colored slides of the park scenes, flowers and wild life - very good.  Now at 11 o'clock to bed.  I put some color film in my camera.  If it is bright enough will take some color pictures tomorrow.  We are all set for our tip into the park.  Eleven o'clock and still bright daylight.

The adventure continues . . .

Just Writin' on the River Road

Passion - and then some

Passion.  In this time of Lent and Easter, we often talk about "The Passion of Christ".  But what is passion exactly?  We say we are passionate about things or people but, again, what does that entail?

I recently attended a piano concert here in town.  In between musical numbers, the pianist talked about his gift of music.  I watched as he valiantly tried to describe what he felt when he wrote music or played it.  He could not find the words to describe that "feeling" that enveloped him when he created.  He desperately tried to use vain words to convey to us how he felt about his music. He viscerally turned himself inside out trying to make us understand.  Passion is not something easily described.  It is something internal, guttural, personal, something that can't really be shared with others.  They can see the end result . . . beautiful music, in this case, but never know how it came to be.  I can never know what drives this man to write and play music.  I can enjoy it and appreciate it, but never understand the process or the passion it took to create it.

In some sense I feel similar things when I write.  I love words, the way they sound, what they express.  How is it that mankind can string together sounds that create meaning.  Not only words, but punctuation, to give those sounds impact.  Words have power - power to create or power to destroy.  We all take them for granted, but for some they are a gift which expresses their passion.

The Bible says that before there was anything, there was "The Word".  Doesn't that strike you as a little strange?  Why not have God first, or Christ, why the Word?  In the void of nothingness, there was the Word.  God knew he had to find a way in which to show us who He was, what better way than with His Word.  His Word which reveals his character, his desires, his love, his care for us, his ultimate creation that He loved more than life itself.

God is a creator.  He instilled a need to create in each of us.  What a superb gift to bestow upon your children!  I taught my children to be honest, upright, hard working people, but I did not teach them to create.  I can't.  That ability is God given.  When we "feel" passionate about something, it is not something we want to do, it is something we must do!

God gave me a love of words.  He also filled me with a passion to use them.  I teach.  Not because I want to, or because I am excellent at it, but it fills a need in me so deep that I have to do it or life would be without much of its meaning.  So I write and I teach, because that is what I have to do.  God created that hole in me that can only be filled by Him, His Word, and my love for Him.  He created and now I create.

So how does passion and Christ fit together?  I always thought of passion as a relatively good thing, but in Christ's case, it just doesn't seem to fit.  Or at least it didn't until I listened to the pianist.  Now I think I may have an inkling of understanding.  Christ loved so deeply, his passion for creation was so great, that He had to do the one thing He had been created specifically to do . . .  give his life so that we could spend ours in eternity.  He felt so much passion for His creation that He suffered unspeakable agony to bring it to fruition.  What he felt was beyond love, or concern, or caring, He pulled from his very being everything He had to become that perfect sacrifice for ME.  There is no way I can understand that.  I can't even fully appreciate it.  But what I will never do is take it for granted!

Consider passion during this week of Easter.  Do you have deep, gut wrenching passion about something in your life?  Have you even thought about it?  How do you express that passion?  Do others see your passion?  Do some pondering.  You may discover what you were created to do!

Happy Easter to all,

Just Writin' on the River Road

Pauline's Adventures Continue

Pauling and her sister have now set foot in Alaska.  Her adventures continue.

June 21 - Wednesday.  Boat is still going up and down but M and I are happy.  Slept right through Yakutat last night which we reached about 1 o'clock.  We should get to the Columbia Glacier about 8 or 9.  Got up today about 7:30 - breakfast at 8.  Prunes, milk and toast!  Went up on the deck a while then played deck horse shoes with Mr. Shedd, Hale, Garvey and another lady.  It is now just before lunch.  Saw a school of porpoises playing beside the ship this morning.  The dining room has begun to thin out some - too much rolling.  Our table is still at last though.

7:30 PM.  Still bright daylight.  Still very cloudy and misty too.  Had our lunch at 12:30 then M and I came down to our cabin and went to sleep.  I slept all afternoon and got up just in time to eat dinner.  Didn't earn that meal, did I?  After dinner was through, M and I and Miss Collett went on the upper deck and played deck tennis.  It is lots of fun but it became so misty that the deck got slippery and I slipped and fell and got my blue shirt dirty.  It was too wet to play then so we went down and watched them play shuffle board a while.  Last night our steward brought us cherries to eat.  The night before we had oranges and apples.  I wonder what we will have tonight.  We got the return part of our ticket back from the purser tonight.  Our train leaves Seward tomorrow at nine.  Have to pack up tonight.

11:15 PM.  Should be 12:15 but we set our clocks back an hour.  M and I are in bed, our packing is done and we got everything back into our suitcases.  The steward said he would help us with them tomorrow.  Saw the Columbia Glacier - over a quarter of a mile wide and several miles back into the mountains and is 300 feet high.  Towering cold blue ice, every now and then a piece breaking off and splashing into the sea with a noise like thunder.  The boat pushed right through little and big pieces ice bergs floating at the foot of the glacier.  You could feel them bump the ship.  This was 1 o'clock at night and M and I used up our camera film taking pictures.  It was dreadfully cold  though with a misty rain  when the boat finally turned away and started back to the gulf again.  We had gone into Redemption Bay.  M and I were glad to go to the dining room and eat a cold meal and to drink hot tea.  Came back to our rooms about 11:15.  Packed until 12 o'clock then set our clocks back and got to bed at 11.  Good night!

June 22, Thursday.  Got up about 7.  Already knew by the numerous and loud noises that we were already docked at Seward.  M and I went on deck and watched them unload the cargo til breakfast time and paid our tips.  Mr. Shedd had helped us decide the amount - $2 for the table steward and $1.50 for the room steward..  M had a run in with the room steward but most of the time things went nicely.  Got our baggage down to the station and finally after a long wait set our for Anchorage on the train - 114 miles.  The train is slow and bumpity but was nice about stopping at scenic places so we could take pictures.  Scenery was beautiful - lovely high mountains covered with snow.  The snow coming right to the tracks.  Clear rushing streams wound around through the hills.  The reflections in the lakes and pools of water we passed were unbelievably clear and beautiful.  Saw two glaciers and took pictures.  Arrived in Anchorage about 4 and had expected trouble over our hotel.  There were no reservations here for us but our friend from across the isle on the boat - the man from Long Beach - requested in a loud voice that the hotel manager "fix these girls up" so we were finally placed through in single rooms.  We had checked our baggage to Anchorage so we just gave the hotel clerk our baggage checks and he had our suitcases brought up to our rooms for us from the station.  Very nice.  After walking around town a while, M and I ate at the Anchorage Grill.  Had razor clams fixed in butter.  During dinner Mr. Shedd's party came in to eat.  After dinner we met Mrs. Wilson - the Alaska lady who is flying into Mt. Bethal tomorrow.  She and M and I got to
talking with the hoel manager about works and pictures so he took us into the studio of Sydney Laurence, the painter, who lives at the hotel here.  We saw much of his work.  It is lovely.
lovely.

M and I walked to a bluff over looking Cook's Inlet.  M took pictures of the summit across

the water.  Coming home we saw some lovely houses with pretty flower beds and new gardens just starting.  The sun didn't set til 9:30 and now at 10:30 it is still bright daylight.  Tomorrow us M's birthday.  I bought her a dog carved out of bone.  Now I'm in bed in the hotel.  Very comfortable rooms, closet, dresser, very soft bed, hot and cold running water, telephone, easy chair and a heater that keeps the room nice and warm.  Has stayed cloudy today, although the sun broke through bight about 7 o'clock.  Nice and warm though.  Tomorrow we go to Curry.


To be continued . . . .

Just Writin' on the River Road

Peirls of Pauline

The continuing adventures of young Pauline and Margret as they enjoy their excursion to Alaska. It would appear that Pauline took many pictures during her adventure in Alaska.  I have tried to remain true to what she might have photographed during her trip.

June 15, Sunday, 9:15 AM.  Had a grand nights sleep, beds are very comfortable.  Woke up this morning about 7 - just in time to feel the ship begin to roll.  We were entering open sea for ways.  We had just left Queen Charlotte Strait.  We got dressed while the ship rolled.  Then about 7:30 Margret went to breakfast.  I went up on deck to hold high thoughts.  M had fresh strawberries, toast, and coffee.  She joined me on deck later.  It was misty, wet, but not very cold.  About 9 we came back again into the shelter of the islands and now I am hungry and have to wait until 12:30 for lunch.  There is a ladder that you can use to climb up into the upper berth but we don't need it and it is sort of in the way.  So I printed a "For Sale Cheap" sign and it is waiting for the steward.

11:15 PM.  In bed again.  Saw a lovely sunset tonight.  Sky seems to be clearing.  Had another grand diner tonight and a long talk with our African friend.  Then M and I went for a deck constitutional.  We walked around the deck several times when M suddenly slipped and we both fell flat.  We laughed til our sides ached.  Went through Kemtu (sp) Channel by Bella Bella and saw some fishing canneries. Too foggy to take pictures but you could see all the lovely tree covered hills on both sides very close to the boat with little and big water falls cascading down.  Tomorrow at 7 we dock at Ketchikan so M and I have to be up early.  We only stay until 9.  So now to sleep.

Ketchikan early 1940's

June 19.  Got up about 6:30 and went ashore at 7.  Sky was very overcast but it did not rain.  M and I spend about two hours walking around.  Went up to the government school for the Indians.  Bought a totem pole then went around through Totem Pole Park.  Saw the large totems -  very weird things.  Took a few pictures then came back by the creek to town to a curio store where I got an Eskimo doll and a free souvenir dog and sled at Billingsleys.  Back to the ship again at 9 and had some breakfast.  Scenery is still very lovely - getting more mountains and snowy all the time.  Saw some porpoises following the ship and later in

Totem pole

in the evening some little ice bergs.  One broke and went splashing into the water.  No time to go to bed now.  At 11 o'clock at night  it is still quite daylight.  Took some pictures at 9 at night.  Had an adventure show in the observation room at 9.  Some of it was good.  Played bingo too and M won $1.50.  Not me though.  Had to set back our clocks an hour too.  About 5:30 we stopped at Petersburg.  That is our dinner time so M went to dinner but I took a walk through town.  It was raining but I thought it was fun.  This is a friendly feeling port.  Saw the funny little raft houses that people live on in the ocean.  Also saw them unload a poor cow from the ship.  Swung her out over the side of the ship to the dock.  I went into dinner late so just had salad, milk, and dessert.  Got into Juneau about 12 at night and stayed until 4 in the morning.  M and I slept but up about 6:30 to find we were still in Juneau at the mining dock.

June 30, Tuesday.  Got up about 7 went up on deck.  We were at the mining dock at Juneau.  Saw the gold mine.  They were unloading all kinds of pipe and sheet metal from our boat.  Met a woman there who said she would take us around when we came back.  Went down to breakfast late, had an omelet.  Stayed up on deck all morning taking some pictures of   the snow covered mountains.  Passed the Mendenholl Glacier. Just after lunch we saw two rather large ice bergs.  Passed close to them.  They were covered with sea gulls eating ice worms.  Got some pictures. Played cards and slept most of the afternoon since it got cold again.  After dinner we went on deck.  A steward took us up to the Capitan's bridge.  We met the Capitan and he showed us the instruments.  Took some pictures of the sun set and saw Mt. Elias.  Capitan said we would see Columbia Glacier tomorrow.  Said winter was lasting long this year.  Went back on deck for a while then to bed about 11.  Meant to get up to see the fort of Yakutat but slept through it.  We have been in the gulf since this afternoon about 3 o'clock.  So far M and I have good sea legs.  Saw a whale this morning.

To be continued . . .

Just writin' on the River Road